Catch up posting

It has been quite a while since I last posted anything, which is mildly ironic because I´ve had access to and been using a computer (versus my iphone which is slow to write on ) more than at any other point in my travels. I have been in Buenos Aires for two weeks now and have another 3 weeks before my CELTA course is over. But before I talk all about the wonders and annoyances of BA let me catch you up on the events prior to my arrival here.



Glacier Perito Moreno

I have now seen about five or six glaciers in my life (I haven´t counted really, its possible I´ve seen more) and the most amazing of all of these was Glacier Perito Moreno. It was incredible. Perito Moreno is rather unique because, unlike so many glaicers today, it is growing rather than shrinking. This means that is also a rather active glacier. Chunks fall off every day, hell more like few minutes. The glacier is also pretty the main people come to El Calafate and why the town has transformed from a tiny Patagonian outpost to a booming tourist town with quaint buildings, cafes, fancy outdoor stores, and a population of immigrants all corners of Argentina. There are few native "El Calafatians."



Clarence and my host´s GF, Ani, on the way to the glacier

Me, Clarence, and some adorable Argentinian girls who were enthralled with Clarence

The cheapest way to get to the glacier is to take the public bus, which leaves twice a day and gives you between 3 to 5 hours at the glacier. Cost, $25 (aka 100 pesos). Entrance to the glacier (which is part of national park) is another $25. If you go with a tour the cost starts to rise. OR you can go with your couchsurfing hosts and pay...nothing. The fee to enter the park is cheaper for Argentinians and free for locals from El Calafate. My fellow couchsurfer was one of those people who likes doing things just for the story and he has been hitchhiking around the world for about 2 years so his budget was extremely tight, meaning he didn´t want to pay $25 to get in to the park. So a few kilometers away from the entrance we stuffed him in the trunk (it was a hatchback, so not too bad, though he was like 6 feet tall so it was still a tight squeeze.) When we got to the entrance my couchsurf host´s girlfriend handed me the mate gourd and thermos and told me not to talk. My couchsurf host showed his i.d. to the entrance person, his girlfriend spoke in Spanish, I stayed silent, the guy in the trunk stayed silent. And in we went for free. Couchsurfing is the best (I also got dinner free that night cause my couchsurf host took us to the hotel he manages).

It was stunning how quickly time flew by at the glacier. I could´ve stared at it for hours more and could easily have gone back the next day to see it again. My couchsurf hosts said they never get tired of bringing couchsurfers to the glacier, even though they´ve been over a dozen times, and I completely understand why. The quality of the light constantly changes the glacier. The tones of the blues shift. They can seem to be glowing, they can be pale, they can be deep...its amazing. And then there is the fact that huge chunks of the glacier can fall! We spent at least half of the time we were there staring at one large chunk that looked like it could fall. That chunk never did but while we were staring at it, willing it to tumble into the water, the entire face of the glacier next to slid into the water, with a resounding boom, and created a wave that soaked our couchsurf hosts who were all the way on the other side of the water 2 km away! It was pretty hilarious because there was a group of probably 15 of us staring at this one part of the glacier and then the piece next to it was what fell. There was a collective scream from everyone. It was great. I do not have the words to describe how beautiful this place was. So I will show you photos.

Wave created by the collapse of piece of glacier face (you can sort of see it sliding down). The jutting out piece on in the right corner is what we were willing to fall.





Post slide. Notice the new baby icebergs in the water

 After a few relaxing days in El Calafate I took the bus to Rio Gallegos. Everyone talks about how Rio Gallegos isn´t worth your time, there is nothing to see, its a waste of time...you get the point. For this reason I took the latest bus that I could. I arrived at 8pm and had a 3am flight. I saw very very little of Rio Gallegos. A very kind cab driver took me from the bus station to the city center. I told him I wanted to get dinner at a parilla, which is a type of restaurant that usually specializes in grilled meats and such. He said he knew a good cheap one and dropped me off at an all you can eat Chinese buffet/parilla. It was neither cheap nor good yet I ate there anyway, reading my book in the corner. It was amusing just to watch the people there, it was very popular (despite being neither cheap or good). I planned on eating and then walking around but I ended up spending 3.5 hours at the restaurant. Argentinians eat really late, the restaurant was fairly empty when I arrived at 8:30ish and started filling up after 9pm. I befriended two middle aged gentleman and sat and talked with them for over an hour. They wished me happy International Women´s Day, which surprised me. March is the Month of Women here in Argentina and people actually know and celebrate International Women´s Day! In the USA there is typically an event (for example in Portland there is always something at PSU) but its not a common knowledge holiday.

The airport in Rio Gallegos is quite nice and new. My trip through security was the EASIEST by far I´ve had since 9/11. I didn´t have to take off my shoes. I didn´t have to empty out my water bottle. I didn´t have to take off my sweater to go through the x-ray machine. Incredible. After 2 hours of restless sleep on the place I arrived in BA, where the air was muggy and warm and completely different than Patagonia. I´ll write tomorrow about the serendipity involved in finding my apartment here and my first few days in the city. Slowly I´ll catch you all up.